Setting out for Petra at 6:30 this morning, the moon greeted me above the As-Siq, the narrow passageway to the ancient city splitting through the rocks that tower 80 meters above. Just as Falah had told me yesterday (STORY), there were no tourists-- literally none-- that I met on my way in. Throughout the day as I met the people living and working in Petra, many of whom are Bedouin, they would ask me where I am from. When I told them I am American, they would quickly reply, "Welcome, American. Please tell your friends it is safe here."
Peeking through the end of the As-Sig, the immense Treasury stands guard. |
With only one day in Petra, when some say that to see it all would take an entire week, my
single goal was to visit Ad-Deir, or the Monastery, (85 BC- 110 AD) at the far side of the ancient city.
Walking through Petra, every monument I felt was simply "on the
way to the Monastery".
The Treasury (1st Century BC) |
the Theatre (25-125 AD), |
Urn Tomb (70AD) |
Colonnaded Street (100-200 AD) |
The Temenos Gate (125-225 AD) |
When I arrived at the foot of the path leading up to the Monastery, several men tried to convince me to ride one of their donkeys (for a price) up the 800 steps carved into the side of the mountain by insisting it would take two and a half hours by foot and only 40 minutes by animal. Not only did I feel that it was too cruel to ride an animal up such terrain, I also felt that the pain of getting there was an important part of the pilgrimage.
Lives springs forth from the desert floor. |
Arriving at the Monastery, I paused before its beauty waiting for something inside of me to happen. But it did not. How long had I been anticipating this moment, and yet, nothing? Approaching the Monastery closer still, I found that I did not wish to remain there and instead followed a voice that said "keep climbing".
Climbing further away from the Monastery, the natural splendor in which it is set was revealed. It was not the Monastery itself to which I was being called, it was into the heavenly world in which the Monastery is merely a tiny part.
Making a pilgrimage to the Monastery (or any other religious structure) is not about arriving there; it is about not ending one's spiritual journey at something man-made.
My pilgrimage began exactly where I had expected it to end.
My pilgrimage began exactly where I had expected it to end.
To be continued...
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